The largest Turkish city, which stretches on both sides of the Bosphorus, was a paradise for student life until a few years ago. Europeans headed to Istanbul for Erasmus exchange stays, it became the dream of many young Turks. But now the cafes in the former student districts are empty and the waitresses and bartenders are trying to attract at least passing tourists.
From a special reporter – “Students can no longer afford to go out. And when they go, they only have one drink, they have no money left for more,” Neritan, a waitress, describes to the Aktuálně.cz reporter in one of the bars in the Besiktas district, which is on the European side cities right by the sea. It used to be much better, the young woman claims.
Besiktas is one of the most popular parts of the city, home to several universities and a famous football club. With its narrow and interwoven streets, rising slightly uphill from the port, it still refers to the once rich night life.
But it has been disappearing lately. They are to blame, among other things, for the measures of the current Turkish president, Recep Tayyip Erdogan, who will run again for the post of head of state in Sunday’s elections. For more than a decade, his conservative AKP party has been coming up with restrictions on “disorderly lifestyles” and promoting the values of Islam. At the same time, although the majority of Turks are Muslims, the country is a secular state.
“Erdogan, Erdogan, Erdogan, he is to blame for everything,” the waitress’s colleague standing behind the bar is angry. He complains that he has no one to mix cocktails for. “Erdogan is killing the local culture. He wants to destroy us completely and I’m afraid it will continue like this because he wants to steal the elections.”
When Erdogan’s AKP came to power in 2002, a bottle of rakija cost eight Turkish lira. Since then, the price has risen substantially. When the government raised taxes on alcohol last year, a bottle already cost 250 lira, converted to 400 crowns at the time. Now it is 500 lira, which, due to inflation, will cost 550 crowns.
The record inflation also has a noticeable impact not only on nightlife, but in general the possibility of sitting in a restaurant or bar. Officially, it’s just under 45 percent, but many locals believe it’s actually much higher.
As the Aktuálně.cz reporter noted, a beer in a bar now costs 88 crowns, roughly the same as lunch. A can in the store is a bit cheaper – about 55 crowns. The cheapest bottle of wine costs 185 crowns.
Students as enemy number one
Although the government’s effort to limit alcohol consumption affects everyone, it has hit students particularly hard, as they usually have no or very little income. They also complain that they are not a priority for the government. After this year’s devastating earthquake, for example, universities were ordered to introduce distance learning for the entire semester – similar to what happened during the coronavirus pandemic. There is also a lack of seats in the dormitories, which Erdogan’s government has not invested in for the past 20 years.
During the student protests in 2021, when Erdogan installed a businessman close to him, Melih Bulu, as head of the independent Istanbul University, the president even called the demonstrating youth terrorists who go against national interests.
“It was definitely better before. Students used to go out and go on Erasmus abroad. Now none of that works,” describes a young waiter in a black uniform from a neighboring bar in the Besiktas district. “Erdogan raised taxes and now beer is so expensive that young people can’t afford it. Especially when everything is expensive,” he adds, referring to high inflation.
Waitress Neritan had to stop studying and start working full-time due to a difficult financial situation. She is not alone. “Everything is expensive. We can’t afford anything. They’ve made phones, alcohol, things in shops more expensive,” complains Turkish woman Aleyna as she boards the ferry departing from Besiktas with her friend.
Yogurt instead of alcohol
Already in 2013, Erdogan, who describes himself as a devout Muslim, limited the hours during which it is possible to sell alcohol. He tightened the measures in 2021 due to the coronavirus pandemic. He repeatedly speaks publicly against drinking alcohol and smoking tobacco. He also advised people to drink ayran, a traditional yogurt drink instead.
However, Aleyna thinks that the president is not a real Muslim and only pretends to be for his voters. “He takes pictures in the mosque or reading the Koran, but then he steals, which a good Muslim would not do,” he claims. During the last 20 years of government, Erdogan and many of his close associates have been repeatedly accused of corruption. “I think it’s because of him that so many of us are turning away from Islam,” adds the girl, combing her long, wavy hair.
All you have to do is cross the Bosphorus Strait and the Asian part of Istanbul will open before the visitor. In this rather conservative area, one part of the city stands out again, where the locals are also worried about the future of nightlife and cultural life. Kadıköy is famous for its cafes, restaurants and bars. Similar to Besiktas, the narrow streets rise from the harbor up the hill, and students run in groups across the tram belts that circle the center of the area.
“Let Erdogan go to hell,” says a young bartender with an earring in his ear and doesn’t spare vulgarities. He points to the empty tables in the pub. Instead of the students, of which he said there were many sitting here before, he is looking at a couple of older men with newspapers and tea. He hopes that after the weekend everything will change and Erdogan’s government will end.
Video: During last year’s meeting, Recep Erdogan kept Vladimir Putin waiting (20/07/2022)
Erdogan kept Putin waiting, he didn’t know where to look. | Video: Reuters
